What is trouser break?

The break is the small fold or crease that forms where the trouser front hits the shoe. A full break has a deep fold (3cm), half break has a slight fold (1.5cm), and no break means the trouser just touches the shoe without folding. Modern slim trousers often have no break or half break.

Can I lengthen trousers?

Yes, if there is enough fabric in the existing hem allowance. Unpick the hem, press out the old fold line (use a vinegar and water solution for stubborn creases), and re-hem at the new length. If there is insufficient fabric, add a facing strip of matching or contrasting fabric.

What hem type should I use for trousers?

Blind hem is the most common for dress trousers — it is nearly invisible from the outside. Topstitch hems suit casual trousers and jeans. Cuffed hems (turn-ups) are a style choice, typically 3 to 5cm deep. Raw or narrow hems work for lightweight and casual styles.

Should I hem from inside leg or outside?

Measure from the waistband seam down the outside leg to your desired finished length. When trying on, wear the shoes you plan to wear with the trousers. Pin the hem in place and check both legs — they should appear even when standing straight.

SewCalcs

Trouser Hem Calculator

Calculate new hem position and fabric needed for trouser length alterations.

Current Trouser Length

Waistband to current hem edge

Desired Finished Length

Waistband to desired hem fold

Leg Opening Width

Half circumference at hem (flat)

Hem Type

Determines hem allowance needed

Trouser Style

Amount of fabric pooling at shoe

How We Calculate This

Shortening

Amount to Remove = Current Length - Desired Length

The removed fabric adds to the available hem allowance. Trim to the ideal allowance for your hem type.

Lengthening

The desired extra length is taken from the existing hem allowance. If insufficient, a facing or false hem is needed.

Hem Tape

Tape Length = Leg Width x 2 + 3cm overlap

Frequently Asked Questions

Related Calculators

Hem Shortening Calculator

Calculate new hem position and fabric to remove when shortening.

Taking In Calculator

Calculate how much to take in at seams for a smaller fit.

Letting Out Calculator

Check seam allowances and calculate letting-out possibilities.

Tapering Calculator

Calculate tapering amounts for gradual seam adjustments.

Shoulder Adjustment Calculator

Calculate shoulder width and slope adjustments.

Last updated: March 2026

All calculations are estimates. Always verify quantities before cutting or purchasing fabric.